Announcer: Funding for this program has been provided by Virtuoso: a global network focused on luxury and experiential travel.

And Aer Lingus: bringing the world home to Ireland since 1936.

[music] [music] Peter: They exist at the threshold of history on the precipice of a dream.

Rising out of the ocean almost without warning, endless golden beaches leading to lush vivant rainforests, and then sliding into another world of almost barren terrain.

This almost insane combination of topography melds a continent's worth of landscapes, temperatures, culture and experiences, and it's all within eight small islands.

I came here in search of history of culture and tradition, unchanged by travel or travelers.

These are the islands in the stream separated from the rest of the world and yet accessible to those who know.

And a destination where you can explore, immerse, and literally breathe if Mother Nature lets you.

I'm Peter Greenberg and this is Hidden Canary Islands.

They were formed millions of years ago as the violent volcanic forces of the earth fought their way out of the depths of the ocean and broke free to the surface, birthing one by one an archipelago 70 miles off the northwest coast of Africa.

An entirely new land untouched by civilization.

Though the forces of humankind would eventually prove to be just as powerful as nature in shaping these island's destinies.

It's believed the first human settlers paddled over from Africa around 2,000 years ago and slowly spread across all of the islands.

But it was in the 1400s with the bloody arrival of the Spanish conquerors that the modern course of the Canary Islands was set.

By the end of the 15th Century, they became part of Spain making Spanish the language of the land.

And it was Christopher Columbus' last port of call before setting out to accidentally discover a new world, intrinsically linking the Canaries and the Caribbean and eventually making the islands a jumping off point for travel to the Americas.

But ironically, today the Canary Islands are a mystery to most travelers who are unfamiliar with their location.

Or even the meaning of the name derived not from the bird, but from the Latin word for dog, canarius Because of its location and year-round tempered climate, it's a regular vacation destination for many Europeans.

But as you look closer at these islands past the beaches and resorts, you find rich cultures shaped by the diverse blend of its residents who think of themselves as having a European mind and a Caribbean soul.

[music] I started my journey near the middle of the archipelago in Tenerife.

This is the largest of the Canary Islands and the most populated.

It exemplifies the Canary's reputation for permanent good weather, earning the nickname the Island of Eternal Spring.

It's the most visited island and has sometimes been called the Cancun of Europe.

Travelers hopping on a short flight head directly for a beachside hotel.

And as beautiful as those beaches are, some sandy gold, some black from the volcanic soil, that's not where you're going to find the soul of Tenerife.

It's in the land outside of the capital.

And in Tenerife it's not just what's on the island, but what surrounds the island.

It's the ocean.

You can whale watch here and there are companies that will do that for visitors.

But you can find a more private experience, one with a purpose.

[intense music] With her company Whale Wise Eco Tours, Mercedes Reyes brings travelers to these waters west of Tenerife, an area officially accredited as a whale heritage site.

It's a program that recognizes destinations that practice responsible and sustainable whale watching.

Piece of cake.

Right there.

There they are.

Right there.

Peter: For Mercedes, that means powering a boat with as small of a footprint as possible.

Her boats are equipped with a combination of solar panels and low CO2 and electric engines in addition to cameras and a whole array of state-of-the-art technology.

Even with all that equipment, you never know where you're going to find the whales.

Yeah.

For that we need our eyes.

One third of all the whales and dolphins of the species of the world come to swim here.

We are next to a main migration route, a main current of the ocean.

Peter: Everybody's coming through here.

Mercedes: Everybody's coming.

We are the nice restaurant in the middle of the highway.

[laughing] -Oh.

-Right here.

-Look at this.

-A mom and a baby.

-You can't beat that.

-Yeah.

Peter: And today, the first animals we spotted were dolphins.

Peter: Right there.

Right there.

-Right there.

-Here they come.

Here they come.

Whoa!

Hello.

They came to say hi.

Yeah, they're playing with us now.

Peter: As we approach the spot where the whales frequently hunt for squid, you just shut the engine down and o into electric.

The silence takes over, and then listen for the sound of the water spouting from the whales.

And you look for the fins breaking the surface.

That's the only sound you hear.

Look Peter, there they are.

Right straight ahead.

-A whole pod of whales.

-I see them.

They just came out of the water right there.

Yeah, they're resting on the water.

Do you see them?

Peter: This is not just a typical tourist photo op.

You're part of something bigger than that.

You're an active part of a research operation here.

We are collecting data for many projects here, for the government and our own projects.

Basically, there's so much things that we want to do, but we're focusing on conservation first.

Peter: As part of the data collection, you even get the chance to eavesdrop on the whale's conversation.

Mercedes: This is a hydrophone.

It's going to pick up the sounds of the whales, and now we can listen.

Did you hear that?

-Yeah.

-Yeah.

Are those the juveniles talking?

Yeah, on the-- When they repeat the signal, it could be mother calling.

It's a whale boombox.

[giggles] Yes.

Peter: And I think they're even calling my name.

So, we headed back near the shore where it was safer for me and the animals.

So, I could take a closer look... at the wildlife in this amazing underwater world.

But the true surprise of Tenerife is actually an unavoidable one.

Just about everywhere you are: on the water, at the beach, in the forest, you find yourself looking up at the largest mountain in Spain.

This is Mount Tada.

It soars so high that a sea of clouds forms below it.

And it's the central feature of Teide National Park, the source of the untouched lava flows, hardening and layering together to create this stunning landscape.

It is this alien-like terrain that has made Teide National Park the most visited site in the Canarys.

But the locals know when to go.

That's when the sunsets and the tourists leave.

By day, it's imposing, but by night it hides a bigger secret.

[music] This is an officially designated starlight destination and reserve.

One of the finest places on Earth to view the clear, dark skies.

-It's so quiet.

-Yes.

End of the day, we can discover the sound of silence.

Peter: Juan La Dezma, a local astronomy teacher, brought me to a quiet pocket of the park called the San Jose Mines, where the terrain transports you to other worlds.

This is really about as close as you can get to a moonscape.

Juan: Or even Mars?

Peter: The landscape of a national park is so similar to Mars that they field tested the Rovers here preparing to explore the distant red planet.

But here, the celestial bodies feel very close.

The day has gone and we can see Venus and Jupiter, two planets overhead.

Peter: With the naked eye?

Juan: Naked eye, of course.

Peter: And Juan had an array of technology to bring us even closer: astronomical binoculars.

Oh my god.

A specialized astrophotography camera.

Peter: So, you could see all the craters.

Juan: Yeah.

Peter: And even some of the old seas, right?

Juan: Yes, around the craters.

A Dobsonian telescope, optimized for viewing faint distant objects.

Juan: Tonight, we can see planet Jupiter.

It's amazing because it's like a bright dot.

Oh, yeah!

Yeah, in the center of the eyepiece.

Peter: Where we are right now is ideal for dark sky viewing.

Juan: Yes.

Most of the days we have clear skies.

Peter: In this one spot, you can see the majority of the 88 constellations both northern and southern hemispheres.

And mostly everything else in the heavens as well.

The International Space Station is just rising from the south.

There it goes.

He's moving fast.

Juan: He's moving so fast, about 15,000 miles an hour or so.

Peter: It never gets old, right?

Juan: No.

Peter: What are the lessons that you learned here?

When you come out here, what has it taught you?

Juan: We are not in the center of the universe.

We must be humble.

Peter: Once you put it in perspective, you realize how small you really are.

[upbeat music] Just a short plane ride away is a continent in miniature, Gran Canaria.

From the moment you land, you can't miss the different landscapes, micro climates, and yes, different cultures.

You can attend a symphony in the city while just a few miles away residents are living in caves, keeping old traditions alive.

What sets Gran Canaria apart is the cosmopolitan capital of Las Palmas, the most populated city in the Canarys.

In one corner of the city is the old town neighborhood, Vegueta.

Here the Spanish influence is so strong it feels like you're walking through a European city.

And who better to be my guide than someone born and raised here, like Germán Lopez who has gone on to become a world-renowned musician.

I think to grow up in a place like this is very special because you have-- At the same you live in a small town, in a small place, but the Canary Islands are very connected with Europe and America.

So, you live in a small place, but your influences are huge.

[soft music] Peter: The timple was born out of the Canarys, as is the music Germán plays on it.

The islands inspire him as a performer.

And even though he travels the world, he always comes back home.

I play the timple, a small guitar, a local instrument, but the music I feel is international music.

Peter: He took me to one of his favorite places, Santana Square.

This is one of the most beautiful places in the city and look at this, our cathedral.

Peter: Wow, what a building.

Germán: Yeah, it's wonderful.

Peter: And tucked around the corner is a sign of great significance to us here in the Americas.

This is a very important building in this city because it's the last place where Christopher Columbus left to the New World.

Peter: This is the last place he was?

Yeah.

So this is very important for us and it's a very beautiful one.

Peter: It's magnificent.

Germán: Yeah.

Peter: But it has a different significance for Germán.

This was the location of his first concert.

And since he takes his instrument everywhere he goes, it was only fitting for a repeat performance.

You know that the first time I never forget.

[timple music] Peter: The music that comes out of the small, little string instrument is delicate.

It's soothing.

It's enchanting.

And then you give it a sense of place as to where you're listening to it in and it takes on new meaning.

[timple music ending] That was beautiful.

Thank you very much.

Peter: Germán has been a gifted player since he was a child, but you're never too old to start learning.

Okay, I put it on.

When I look through your eyes, I know that you are a great musician.

Try it.

A duet?

Let's go.

[timple music] Germán: Wow!

[timple music] Did I do okay?

Yeah, you're a great student.

You are a great student.

My best.

Total liar.

[music upbeat music] Peter: On the outskirts if Las Palmas is an unusual urban beach.

A two-mile stretch of golden sand lined by a boardwalk full of cafes and restaurants.

Here's where you'll find the long-time locals mixed in with the newly arrived digital nomads, who discovered they could work from anywhere and also play from right here.

We decided that living in a city and being sucked down to one place when you could be out there on the beach.

It's a small town neighborhood of Las Palmas where everybody's connecting to the beach.

Is connected to the lifestyle.

Is connecting to the surf.

Peter: Born and raised steps away from the beach, Guillermo Morales Mateos knows just about everybody here and he also knows what attracts them.

This beach is unique in the world because we are the reef barrier.

When the low tide goes down, it's like a massive swimming pool.

Peter: Guillermo has created the perfect lifestyle for himself: to work and play all at the same time running paddle board classes.

[instructing in Spanish] If you want the best experience on Gran Canaria, all you have to do is ask.

Guillermo: Meet the locals, meet the culture.

We have the beach, we have the people.

People from Gran Canaria and under the whole Canary Islands have a really warm heart.

They will hug you, they will kiss you, and yes, it's the place to be.

It's the place to be.

Peter: Well, it's certainly one of the places to be out here, on El Hierro.

It feels like you've reached the end of the world.

It's the western most Canary Island, the farthest from mainland Spain, and it feels remote even from its neighboring islands.

El Hierro is quiet, more rural, but the natural beauty is no less magnificent.

The gnarled juniper trees shaped by years of trade winds.

The Bonanza Rock rising out of the water.

The pathways winding through forests.

Here at the world's edge El Hierro is working towards creating its own brave new world, and for all its residents of all sizes.

The name giant lizards of El Hierro may make you think of something, well giant, and they are, relatively speaking.

Roughly three times bigger than other species in their lizard family.

But even more remarkable than their size, is their comeback story.

Well, the El Hierro lizard was rediscovered in 1975.

Pretty recent.

Yeah, but they have extinction.

Peter: Like a real live Jurassic Park, Miguel Rodriguez runs the Center for the Recovery of the El Hierro giant lizard.

The mission, to undo humanity's passed destruction.

The facility is nestled at the base of the mountains that the lizards call home.

Peter: So, they used to eat them all.

Miguel: Yes.

Peter: And now?

So, they're eating them?

Yes.

Peter: They had once thrived all over the island.

But in addition to overhunting, the lizards had their habitat destroyed by the Spanish invaders.

They're still endangered?

Yes, of course.

Yes.

In 1985 their rescue began.

Using science to make this nearly extinct species roam the Earth once again.

Right now, we have an ambitious recovery program where we release the lizards into their former habitats.

Peter: Here the lizards are studied and bred in captivity.

In addition, the Center is open to the public so visitors can learn about the giant lizards up close and in person.

Okay.

Back at the Center, I was invited to assist in the lizard intake process starting with measuring and weighing.

Whoa!

It's one thing to observe an animal.

It's another thing to participate in its preservation.

4-3-9.

4-3-9, okay.

Peter: I've never handled an animal like that before.

And I certainly had never inserted an electronic chip like that before.

How far do I go down?

Miguel: Behind the skin, okay.

Peter: Right there?

Right there?

Miguel: Yeah, yeah.

Okay.

Okay, perfect.

That's it.

We got it?

Yeah, yeah.

Okay.

Peter: It was pretty wild.

Ladies and gentlemen, lizard GPS.

Peter: In Miguel's 25 years on the island, he's seen the population of giant lizards grow from 100 to 800, but the work must continue to make them self-sustaining.

At the moment, they depend on us.

The idea is that in the future, they can reproduce on their own and survive without the help of humans.

It is the ultimate goal-- To set them free.

Peter: As proof the population is growing, here's one more lizard that's ready for life on the outside.

Whoa, he's gone.

The great beauty of El Hierro is what surrounds it: endless rugged rock formations, birthed by lava flows and shaped by the relentless pounding waves.

One of the more striking spots along the water is called Charcoal Azul, or Blue Puddle.

An untouched natural pool protected by lava barriers from the crashing waters.

Though there are just a few travelers who've come to take in the natural beauty, today, I have my sights set on a smaller wonder.

And at low tide, they reveal themselves.

Limpets: small sea creatures scraped from the rocks by locals.

Alejandro Morales has been gathering limpets here all his life and I wanted to join him.

I mean, I really wanted to join him because it was quite the journey to get to meet him.

A man of few words, but years of wisdom and experience.

Alejandro led me down to an even more challenging route towards the rocks where we'll finally find those limpets.

So it's like a clam or a mussel?

It's the mussel.

It's the Hierro.

It's the delicacy.

Oh, just like that?

He's like this.

-Yes.

-Wow!

So you can eat these raw?

Yes, this is very, very sweet.

It's okay?

It's okay.

-Not bad.

-Yes.

Peter: On the half shell.

You've heard of farm to table.

How about rock to table?

Alejandro prepared a mojo sauce for an outdoor grilling experience.

Starting with some garlic, then parsley, adding some olive oil.

Then grinding it to a paste, filling the grill with limpets and adding the mojo.

And now, you light it up.

[speaking Spanish] Yes, recollection with the-- Already sizzling.

Yeah, it's very, very fast.

That one's good.

[speaking Spanish] Not too hot?

Mmmm.

Wow!

Delicious.

Delicious.

The scallop, it's a mussel, it's a clam, and it's right here in El Hierro.

It's the life.

It is the life.

Peter: For my next island, I chose to go by ferry to La Palma tucked in the northwest corner of the archipelago.

As you approach from the east, the island looks beautiful and serene.

But hidden behind the mountain ridge on the island's western half, the scene is anything but peaceful.

Back in 2021, the initial news reports were both vivid and shocking.

The first volcanic eruption in the Canarys in 50 years.

It's awe inspiring and it's frightening.

But how do you understand this?

Put it in context.

I connected with local volcanologist, Merra Sanchez Jiminez.

She's been studying volcanoes like this for years.

In fact, this is her life.

It's one thing to know that you are living in a volcanic island.

It's another thing to realize that you have a volcano under your feet.

Peter: And that volcano is expanding the size of the island foot by foot.

It's a marvel of nature's power that also brings great destruction.

Merra: Yes, the volcano erupted in one place where there are a lot of houses.

More than 1,000 houses have been destroyed.

But also I think there are more than 8,000 people that has been evacuated.

Peter: It's one thing to watch something erupt.

It's another thing to hear it.

Merra: People are really surprised for the sound of the volcano.

Some say, oh, the volcano is like boom, boom, boom, boom all the time.

Is this surprising?

Sometimes.

A little scary.

Yeah.

We don't know when it is finishing, but I would like that the people realize that the destruction of the volcano, the consequences and maybe the opportunity for the future.

Peter: And for Nierez, in addition to learning about the volcano, she's also found insight on the people of La Palma.

When people have lost everything, you talk with them and they still say that, "Well, things happen and we have to stand up again and go on."

So I think this is the most important thing.

Peter: The ash blanketing the ground has temporarily dulled some of La Palma's natural beauty.

Some of the greenest, luscious areas of the Canarys: the sloping hills, the pine trees clinging to the mountainsides that contrast with the barren abysses on the southern half of the island.

Atop the mountain ridges, a series of telescopes take advantage of La Palma's minimal light pollution to scan the heavens including the largest optical telescope in the world.

Down by the water, much of the coastline is rocky, attracting only scattered beachgoers.

And overall, La Palma is one of the least visited of the Canary Islands relying heavily on agriculture for its economy, an industry heavily impacted by the recent volcano.

This is amazing.

Fran: This is all ash.

Yes, we are nearly more than six kilometers from the volcano.

All the days have something like this, over the cars, over the plantation.

The volcano affects all the island.

Peter: But still you're growing bananas.

Fran: Yeah.

Peter: Fran Garless is a farmer at one of La Palma's 5,000 banana plantations, which account for nearly 30% of the island's economy.

And if you ask the right person, they're all too happy to share what makes Canarian bananas different from any others in the world.

So, this is all the bananas?

Yes, this is the banana, under the banana leaves.

One of the biggest leaves in the Earth.

These plants needs a lot of water, about 20 meters per day.

It's a big plant and grows so quick.

But why do they grow so well here?

Good sun, good water and good minerals for nutrition of the plants.

These bananas are so sweet, so nutritive bananas and so tasty.

Peter: On top of the great growing conditions, the bananas require a little personal care.

And you just might get enlisted to help.

We need to cut with a little knife all these flowers one by one by one.

One by one?

One by one.

Peter: Every banana gets this personal touch.

And maybe that's why the people on this island insist they're the tastiest bananas in the world.

Though it may also be because this strain of banana has a much higher percentage of sugar.

But these bananas are also challenged.

All that sweetness disappears if the banana skin is damaged by volcanic ash.

We can see the ashes.

We move the plants.

Oh, my goodness.

To fall down.

Does it hurt the bananas?

Yeah.

Destroys the skin.

Normally in this society we eat by the eyes.

The bananas can have a lot of damage.

It's not useful for the market.

Peter: And the ash isn't the only problem.

The lava has burned through hundreds of acres of plantations and cut off essential irrigation systems.

The lava destroys the pipes.

And we haven't got water in the other side, then the bananas are so dry.

Peter: Between destroyed land and ruined crops, the volcano has caused an estimated 116 million dollars in damage to La Palma's banana industry, affecting one out of every three plantations.

Be careful with the ashes.

Oh, this is volcanic problems.

Peter: If you're picking bananas, you're picking ashes too.

Wow.

Yeah.

Sixty kilograms, so and so about.

No kidding?

Peter: For those who depend on bananas for their livelihood, they persevere with their back-breaking work, even in the face of a volcano.

Thanks, Peter.

Whoa.

[deep sigh] The first one.

[Peter chuckles] Okay.

That was one.

Yeah, one of them.

And that is a shower.

Sure.

Peter: The hope is that the ash won't be flowing.

As you're watching this, there's a good chance the eruptions may have ended.

But beneath these natural wonders of La Palma, there remains a volcano just waiting to erupt again.

[upbeat music] It has always been difficult to reach the island of La Gomera.

The steep hillsides that greet you upon arrival look inhospitable.

And indeed, La Gomera was mostly cut off from the other islands and the world at large until the 1950's when the construction of a pier opened the door to travelers.

But the true cultural distinction of La Gomera was born out of its isolation and distinctly challenging terrain.

[music] The rugged soaring cliffs and deep valleys, they make for beautiful photo ops, but imagine what it must have been like before cell phones or even landlines for that matter to communicate over distances as far as 3 miles away, village to village.

[whistling] Well, that's where the ancient language of Silbo Gomera comes in.

There are a handful of other whistling languages in the world, but none as developed as this.

The whistler translates spoken words into the whistle language.

We are not whistling a code, but we are whistling in Spanish.

It was very important to the people on the islands because it prevented them from walking long distances.

Things that would take a two-hour road trip could now be done in a matter of seconds.

[whistling] Peter: Juan Manuel teaches this old traditional communication artform to school-kids all over the island.

The Gomeran whistle is mandatory in all schools on the island.

From the first grade of elementary school to the fourth grade of high school.

Thanks to that, we have a high level of whistling among the students and a high percentage of whistlers.

Peter: I came in just in time to catch a whistling class in progress.

[speaking in Spanish] Peter: And what looks easy, trust me, it's not.

Form your finger like this.

Okay.

Yes, the lips.

My grandfather.

Mmmmm.

[laughing] [blowing] Reach it with the points more into your mouth.

Uh, like this?

Yeah.

[blowing] Stop that laughing.

Peter: Today those born before 1950 were taught by the elders at home.

But due to the advancement of modern conveniences, the language almost died out.

It is important to preserve the whistle.

If we do not teach it to the younger people today, the older people, the ones who still know the whistle, will eventually disappear and so will the whistle.

The idea is that these new generations will continue to pass the knowledge on to the future generations and thus, preserve this almost hidden language.

Would you like to say something in my ear?

Oh, sure.

You have a very beautiful island.

Peter: It's one thing to make a sound, it's another thing to understand what they're saying.

I failed at both.

I am a bad whistler.

[whistling] [laughing] Peter: If you want to try your hands and mouth learning silbo, there are a few old-timers left that are all too happy to show you how it's done, to learn it and respect it.

[whistling] Which means?

Do you like Gomera?

Do I like Gomera?

I love Gomera.

All right.

[clapping] [music] Peter: The main activity on La Gomera is hiking.

And people travel from all over the world to explore Garajonay National Park, a lush forest blossoming out of the volcanic soil and nurtured by the flowing springs and streams.

Karen: La Gomera is pure nature.

It's so clean, there's no pollution.

And not that many people know about it.

No, no.

Which is a good thing.

So, this is your special place?

Yes, it's my magic enchanted forest.

Peter: There are very, very few American expats on this island.

Karen Sommers is one of them.

She's found her own very special separate peace here and she's happy to share it.

Of how a woman from Detroit shows up as an acupuncturist in the middle of this island.

Karen: About 25 years ago, I came to visit my mother on holiday because my mother's English, and she was living in Tenerife.

I got to the islands and they just-- You see the air, the light.

They're magical.

I just had to come back and stay.

Peter: And you've been here ever since?

Yes.

Even when I thought okay, I'm leaving, I'm going somewhere else, I always come back.

Peter: Within minutes of talking to her, you understand completely why she fell in love here and even more importantly why she stays here.

You're always in contact with nature.

Where I live right now, it's like five minutes, I'm on the beach.

Twenty minutes, I'm up in the mountains.

I'm not here for the night life or the discotheques.

There's isn't any.

I'm here for this, the nature.

To be able to walk in the forest.

Peter: And what gets me is the quiet.

There's no sound other than the stream.

Karen: Yeah, exactly.

Exactly.

I mean, stop a second.

That's it.

Peter: For Karen, La Gomera became her destiny, simple as that.

So, do you know when I was studying in San Francisco I used to doodle all day on my notes?

Palm trees and beaches and I wanted to go live on an island where I can go snorkeling in the morning and hiking in the afternoon.

And a friend phoned me the other day I hadn't seen in years and she said, "Karen, you did it."

You know what?

I think you did.

I think I did.

I know you did.

Peter: Sitting the closest to Africa's shore is Fuerteventura, the second largest of the island.

The locals here will argue that it's got the finest beaches in the Canarys.

And if you don't like the beach, then you better love the desert because it's everywhere.

The name Fuerteventura has two accepted translations, "strong adventure" fitting for those who dare to explore the arid island interior, or strong wind.

And that wind is used to drive technology, both new and old.

At the end of this dusty road resides a still functioning windmill, La Molina Ambasada.

The blades turning a giant millstone are used to produce gofio, a grain roasted and ground into a toasty flour that has nourished Canarians for thousands of years.

The man who owns it is Francisco Cabrera Oramus, about the last of his kind.

Being the last and only gofio windmill owner in the world, I am the last one who still maintains this tradition and legacy.

[groaning] Peter: Francisco has mastered this century's old technology, and assisted by Andre Yanku, he's able to respond perfectly to the ever-changing winds.

And Francisco does what he can to bring that wind.

Francisco: Every time I get the windmill started, I pray to God.

I feel there's someone helping me move forward, and even giving me good will.

Peter: Today most gofio is made in factories, but Francisco is dedicated to preserving the old ways.

Francisco: I want to share this legacy that our ancestors shared with me to ensure that it is not lost.

Peter: Gofio can be made with wheat, but today we're using locally grown corn.

And before it can be ground, it first has to be toasted.

But remember, this is old school using very old school equipment, all done by hand.

To help heat up the toasting pan he adds a thin layer of sand.

The sand absorbs humidity from the minerals.

That's why it's so important.

More, more, more.

Rapido.

Rapido?

Okay.

A stir.

[speaking Spanish] Keep stirring because if not, you'll burn everything.

And this is the last part.

Of course we don't want to eat the sand.

We want to cook with sand but not to eat the sand.

[speaking Spanish] Peter: A shake....

This is ancient popcorn.

It smells like popcorn.

Peter: ...and a pour.

Ahh.

I've got two thumbs up now.

Peter: There's a lot to be said for old school.

This is old school on parade.

This is the way they've been doing it for hundreds of years and it is nice to see they still are.

Francisco: When the wind is good for grinding, I load the hopper with grain and open the shuttle and the grain starts feeding down slowly and falling onto the stone.

And when it is grinding, I need to touch the gofio so that I assure it has the ideal texture.

It's something that I share with anyone who comes nearby.

Peter: And if you time it right, you might just get dessert.

It's called pella de gofio.

Can put a little bit stuffing inside.

[speaking Spanish] Peter: Add a little water... [speaking Spanish] That's called shaking the stomach.

I got it.

Exactly.

Peter: ...a little oil... Shaking, shaking, shaking.

Peter: ...some sugar and here comes the surprise move.

And this you know you have to put it on your leg.

You mix it on your leg?

And the heat of your leg, and so you mix it on your leg.

Oh, wow.

Oooh, my leg is feeling good.

Peter: What is the result of all this hard work?

My first pella de gofio.

And with a few cuts..

It's sweet.

It's good.

It's sweet, toasted, it's delicious.

It is toasty.

Peter: ...it doesn't get more artisanal and authentic than this.

The same wind that powers this mill also endlessly sculpts the Parque Natural de las Dunas de Corralejo, The largest sand dunes in the Canarys coming in at more than 6 miles long and more than a mile and a half wide.

Rumor has it that the sand was blown here from Africa and the Sahara Desert.

That story still remains an island myth.

Another rumor?

That there's so much sand here, they invented another way to use it.

[intense music] Welcome to lucha canaria a form of folk wrestling that exists only in and among the Canary Islands.

The earliest natives started it and the first written record of it was around Columbus' time.

Today, it remains a major draw amongst the locals.

Right now, it's a big boom.

I went for years here you might see, yeah, 200, 300, 400 people in the match.

And now you can get 3,000, 4,000 people in the entire stadium.

It's crazy.

It's crazy.

Peter: Jake Fuller is one of those up and coming stars.

Interestingly enough, not a native Canarian.

Jake: My parents moved here from England when I was 6 years old.

They used to go to the schools and they used to do exhibitions of showing the kids what lucha canaria is.

I tried it there and I liked it and from there, I'm still doing it.

Peter: Today, he proudly wrestles for the Federacion de Lucha Fuerteventura where I stop by at a wrestling practice.

I've seen my share of wrestling both professional and fixed.

This is a whole different approach.

[intense music] And Jake was all too happy to share with me the finer points of Canarian wrestling.

How are you, Jake?

Hey perfect, yeah.

This is quite a sport.

Yes.

And why is this different from other kinds of wrestling?

If you compare it to the Americans way, you see, you're always in contact.

If you can see, you're only touching the sand with the bottom of your feet.

Once your knees, your hands, somebody touches the sand, you're-- The minute you hit the sand, you're done.

You're done.

So, at the end of the day, if you were moving sand from orifices from your body, you're a loser.

Yeah, yeah.

And down.

One thing watching it, one thing trying.

So why don't you go and get suited up.

I'll wait for you in the center.

You want me to do this?

I want you to be in the center with me.

[intense music] Nice.

Peter: All right, I've been challenged and I guess I couldn't refuse, but I had no idea what I was in for.

Do not kill me.

No.

Don't worry.

All right, so what are we doing?

Okay.

Now, lift arm so that it's always on the trousers.

That good, right there?

On this one, you come down.

This arm you can even get the other side or you can come up to my back if you want.

-However you want.

-So, I can do this?

You can do that, anything.

But you're always got to be sticking your shoulder to my shoulder and we go... Peter: Jake gently walked me through the basic technique of this kind of wrestling.

Oh, I didn't know about that.

[chuckling] But it didn't prepare me for how fast it was going to be before I was eating sand.

This is the thing.

You've got it.

Peter: This is a perfect example of trying something out of your comfort zone.

Although I've got to warn you, you're also going to immerse yourself in the sand.

I think I have to thank Jake for being a really good sport and not putting me in orthopedic surgery.

I'm going to quit while I'm behind.

[laughing] To the north of Fuerteventura sits Lanzarote, the eastern most island in the Canarys.

In the 1700's, the island was rocked by devastating eruptions, and the carved, severe landscape still reflects its volcanic past.

At the coast, water splashes over Lanzarote's distinctive black pebbled beaches.

But there is also life that springs from this blackened soil.

In the Lahedia Valley of Lanzarote, you'll see these bizarre semi-circle structures.

These are wind barriers to protect the grapes in vineyards unlike any other in the world.

But even after the annual harvest, the work never stops.

Daniel Martin at Los Bahmos Winery has the labor intensive job of kick starting the next harvest.

Martin: The first grape.

Peter: Look at that.

It's really amazing that anything grows from the ashes.

We are in the middle of the volcano of Lanzarote.

In 1730 to 1736 all of these volcanos erupted and covered all of this part with volcanic ash.

Peter: Prior to those eruptions, Lanzarote had green fertile fields.

But this new darkened terrain turned out to be nutrient rich.

And that's not all.

The soil here is actually deceptive with no apparent irrigation.

But then you grab a shovel and you dig less than a foot down.

Martin: The water is here.

-That's wet.

-Yeah.

Peter: You didn't have to dig down, it's just right there.

Martin: Yeah, the ashes retain the humidity of the night and the precipitation of six months ago.

Peter: After the eruptions, the farmers found that the grapes not only survived, they thrived.

With the primary vine growing here named appropriately enough, volcanic malvasia.

Martin: This is the only place in the world that grows this type.

So no cabernet, no merlot.

No.

Only volcanic malvasia.

Peter: The vine is planted at the bottom of a hole providing additional protection from the trade winds.

And today, Daniel put me to work pruning vines and repairing walls built in an endless supply of lava stone rocks.

There, how do you like that?

All right, so we fixed one.

How many more to go out there?

Thousands more.

Yeah.

[chuckles] Peter: These fields require a lot of labor, so the yield is lower than traditional wineries.

But once the grapes are harvested, processed and then aged in French oak barrels, the taste is distinctly Canary.

All right.

Salud.

It's sweet.

Yes, really sweet.

-Like a Sherry.

-Like a Sherry.

Yeah, through the bouquet of ash.

This is for you.

Wow, okay.

Nice bottle.

And you know what?

I know exactly where I'm taking this.

Peter: I took his gift and headed west.

All of the Canary Islands have a volcanic history, but nowhere is it more pronounced than here in Timanfaya National Park.

During that 6-year eruption in the 1730's, rivers of lava sculpted the terrain.

It is indeed a long and winding road through a lunar landscape that once you see it, you never forget it.

You could take a guided bus tour up here which also stops at a restaurant called El Diablo where the tourists get a demonstration of the heat that still simmers below the surface.

[gushing sound] But if you know someone who knows someone who knows someone else, you can avoid the crowds and see the desert and feel the heat a whole different way.

Hey, man.

How are you?

Hey, Peter.

Long time no see.

-All right.

-Nice to see you.

Well, I brought the wine.

I caught the fish.

Peter: Christopher Earostaval originally from California now lives full-time here on this island.

A committed expat.

We're not eating at the restaurant?

Nope, I got a better idea over here.

You wait and see.

What is that?

That's a barbecue.

Oooh, that's very, very hot.

That's geo thermo heat coming up from the ground.

And you can ask and they'll let you have a barbecue here in this national park.

Peter: So, that's exactly what we did.

Christopher prepared a rooster fish, typical of the island, in the geothermal heat.

Now, how hot is that?

Christopher: Probably about 400 degrees Fahrenheit.

Peter: That would be hot.

Christopher: Yeah, that'll cook that in no time.

But there's a restaurant there.

Christopher: Yeah, they have their grill up there as well and that was all designed by Manrique.

Cesar Manrique.

Peter: Manrique is inescapable in Lanzarote.

This statue is the official symbol of Timanfaya.

One of many creations of this native-born artist and architect who worked throughout his life to give the island a unified architectural aesthetic.

Peter: Very cool.

Christopher: That's done.

You hungry?

Peter: I am.

The fish gets plated and the wine gets poured.

Well, we got the volcanic wine.

We got the volcanic fish.

A pretty good pairing.

What a great way to spend the day.

Peter, we're just getting started.

You cannot talk about Lanzarote without talking about Cesar Manrique.

Inseparable.

A man with a vision, he transformed this island and all these different places.

That was because of Manrique.

Peter: And Manrique's influence even extended below ground.

This is a wow.

And wow, huh?

Welcome to Jameos del Agua, Peter.

This is a master piece of art and nature.

It's like a Japanese grotto.

It used to be just a volcanic tube.

It was like a bubble and the roof caved in.

Well, they took advantage of the natural structure and completely blended it in so that you can't tell what's manmade and what's natural.

And one guy did this?

One guy.

Incredible visionary.

Peter: At night, this space is often used to host live music.

But early in the morning...

It's so quiet here.

Oh yeah, it's incredible solitude.

All you can hear is just the birds singing.

My favorite place on the whole island.

Peter: Jameos del Agua is one of Manrique's most celebrated efforts to turn the island itself into a work of art.

Christopher: I mean, his whole thing was about art, nature, nature, art giving back to each other.

And I think that he was able to bring it all together in one thing, in his art here.

Well, I got to tell you, that's pretty incredible.

Yeah, but we're not done here.

I've got one last surprise for you.

You do?

Now, wait until you see this.

Peter: We walked out of the lagoon to another natural beauty work of Manrique only to be totally blown away by this.

This is another wow.

Christopher: Yes, this is the crown jewel of Jameos: the auditorium.

It may have the best natural acoustics in the world.

And with all these nooks and crannies, the sound is absorbed so you can hear a pin drop in here and there's no echo.

-Nothing at all?

-No.

Hello.

Nothing.

No.

And I brought some friends and we're going to play some music for you.

Very cool.

So go pick a seat, any seat.

Yeah, you're not kidding, literally.

All right.

Christoper: Okay, I'll see you later.

Peter: You got it.

[music] Peter: Christopher often performs with his band made up of some of the finest musicians in the Canarys.

[music] It's one thing to admire the unbelievable architecture and design of this natural acoustic wonder.

It's another when they start playing.

This is unplugged at its best.

[music] It's a unique blend of Spanish and African sounds, some Arabic thrown in, otherwise known as Volcanic Fusion.

It's perhaps the perfect way to experience this amazing space and sound.

[music] My final stop is just a short ferry ride away to La Graciosa just off the northern tip of Lanzarote.

It's only five miles long, the smallest of the islands.

It was actually a part of Lanzarote until 2018 when it officially became the eighth Canary Island.

It's the least populated island with only 700 residents.

And you won't find any paved roads, so, grabbing a bike is the way I like to explore the island.

The real beauty of La Graciosa is nothing.

That's right, nothing.

It's untouched.

Maybe that's why I saved the least for last.

It gave me time to think about what a remarkable journey this had been.

Eight separate islands where the culture and history have been kept very much alive.

I was given this window into the ocean world.

Confronted the island's raw destructive power and then witnessed its surprising natural potential.

Immersed myself in it's native music.

Embraced local delicacies.

And then embraced the locals themselves.

Played a part in restoring an indigenous species and preserving an ancient language.

And the time to catch up on my own.

I brought along some U.S. newspapers to read, but seeing those stories about the state of the rest of the world, convinced me that it might just be a better idea to stick around just a little while longer in La Graciosa surrounded by the silence, as well as being embraced by the hidden majesty of the Canary Islands.

[music] Announcer: Hidden Canary Islands is available on Amazon Prime Video, offer made by PBS Distribution.

Announcer: Funding for this program has been provided by Virtuoso: a global network focused on luxury and experiential travel.

And Aer Lingus: bringing the world home to Ireland since 1936.

[music]